This net design is a variation on the Fronkey net. The net in these instructions is the bottom entry zipperless Frock net that I sell, and contains 2 cinched openings at either end for easier removal and installation of the net, plus also allows the net to be slid back over your hammock and quilts when not needed. It also contains a simple ridgeline adjustment system to take into account any variations in hammock length. This ridgeline adjustment also allows for hanging the net without the need for a hammock ridgeline, and also allows for the net to be easily setup on the ground.
The instructions may be adapted to suit your own needs. They are provided in good faith, if any errors are found please let me know.
Materials needed :
1. Noseeum mesh x 6metres. I prefer the 1oz polyester netting personally. The durability is greater than the 0.7oz or lighter netting, though it is heavier and more bulky. If you want compact and lightweight go with the nylon 0.7oz netting.
2. Grosgrain ribbon or binding tape –13mm x 420mm and 38mm x 1050mm. I use and prefer the Polyester Herringbone Tape in this instance. It has a softer more natural feel, and cinches up better.
3. Shock cord 2mm x 4m
4. Lineloc3 x 2
5. 10mm O-rings x 4
6. 2mm cord or similar – 1.1m (I use Lawsons Glowire)
7. Cord lock x 3 – the hole needs to be able to take 2x 2mm cord. In this instance I use the mini cord lock.
2. Scissors - sharp
3. Fabric marker
4. Bic lighter
5. Pins or clips - I only use these sometimes when sewing the sides of the nets together otherwise I find pins unnecessary. If you are unsure though go with pins.
6. Measuring tape
7. Long ruler or something with a long straight edge.
1. Measure the structural ridgeline of your hammock or calculate the theoretical ridgeline length using 83% of the hammock length.
2. Cut the noseeum mesh to the length required using 2 x ridgeline length plus 300mm. For example for a 3.3m (3300mm) hammock: 3300 x 83% = 2739mm. 2739 x 2 = 5478mm. Add 300mm: 5478 + 300 = 5778mm (5.778m). I round that up to 5800mm as it accounts for differences in the ridgeline length if people are using an adjustable ridgeline on their hammock, and the built in ridgeline tensioners of this net allow the net to fit various length hammocks.
3. Fold the noseeum in half length ways. So the length of the ridgeline you will be sewing is about 2900mm (2.9m).
4. Align the net edges and from the open end sew a basting stitch along the long edge – approximately 6mm inside the edge of the mesh. This is the start of a top stitch French seam which will form the netís ridgeline.
5. Once finished the basting stitch take the mesh and lay it down on a flat surface. On the bottom edge measure in a distance equivalent to 20% of your ridgeline and mark it. Draw a line from this point to the top edge of the same side. For example: If your hammock ridgeline length is 2739mm. 2739 x 20% = 547.8mm. Round that up to 550mm and you will be fine.
6. On the other side repeat step 5 but this time measure and mark 15%. Again 2739 x 15% = 410.85mm. This is calculated less to take into account the larger opening at the head end, which when cinched up draws up more fabric.
7. Cut along these lines, affectively removing a triangle shape from the mesh.
8. Now back to the sewing machine to finish off the top stitch French Seam. Orientate the net so the raw edge of the basting stitch is sandwiched between the two layers of mesh.
9. Sew along the top edge, this time at about 12mm, so the raw edge is now inside the hem made by the new line of stitching.
10. Now take the net and open it up so that both sides of the sewn seam are on either side of the sewing machines presser foot.
11. Fold over the top edge of the sewn seam and sew it down. Thereby creating a top stitch French Seam. The seam as you look at it will be the inside of the net ridgline.
12. Keeping the net with inside of the net facing up, start at the bottom corner of one side of the net sewing towards the ridgeline seam you have just sewn and continuing to along to the opposite bottom corner, sew a rolled hem, about 10mm or less in width along the entire length of this edge. When you come to the ridgeline seam the angle will be quite acute so it is difficult to maintain the 10mm of the rolled hem. This will be hidden so the rolled hem is not important up near the ridgeline.
13. Repeat on the opposite side.
14. Cut 65mm of the 13mm herringbone tape x 2, and 75mm x 4.
15. With the 65mm tape fold it in half and thread through a 10mm O-Ring. Lightly heating the ends of the tape and pressing them together will hold it closed.
16. Take the tape and O-Ring and sew it one to the top side of either end of the ridgeline. 1 or 2 lines of stitching will be more than plenty, as it wonít be subject to any great forces, and will be sewn over later on.
17. Take two of the 75mm lengths of tape and insert a Lineloc3 on each one. At the ends of the tape have one side slightly longer than the other and fold the top side over the bottom side and stitch or gently melt the ends to secure.
18. Measure and mark from the O-ring along the ridgeline 350mm.
19. Repeat on the other side.
20. Take the other 2 lengths of 75mm tape and fold them in half again inserting a 10mm O-Ring. Once again sewing or melting the ends to keep them in place.
21. Place the Lineloc3 on the top of the ridgeline in line with the mark you made, with the lineloc3 facing the closet end of the ridgeline. The 75mm tape with the O-Ring will go underneath the ridgeline at the same point but facing the opposite way so the O-ring is facing away from the closest end.
22. Sew 2 bar tacks, one close to the Lineloc 3 and the other towards the end of the tape. Make sure you are sewing through the tape on the inside of the net at the same time. This bottom tape acts as reinforcement and also as a point to attach items within the net.
23. Repeat steps 21 and 22 for the other end of the ridgeline.
24. Cut 1 length of 38mm Herringbone tape at 750mm and 1 length at 200mm.
25. Fold over the ends of each piece of tape and sew a line of stitching to form a single fold hem of about 10mm or less.
26. We need to find and mark the middle of each piece of tape. Fold them in half lengthwise and crease and mark the middle of each piece.
27. Now we are going to sew the herringbone tape onto the ends of the net ridgeline to create a channel to run our cord through to be able to cinch the ends closed at the end of the hammock. Starting with the side that was cut at 15% in Step 6-7. Orientate the ridgeline of the net so that the top of the net is facing up. Take the longer length of tape and situate it so that the middle is in line with the ridgeline of the net, and the net is about 10mm over the edge of the tape with the tape underneath the net. Sew the net to one side of the tape, pin if needed. Note: the longer length of herringbone tape will go on the end that was cut at 15%
28. Now fold the tape over, and align it with the other edge of the tape, so that the net is now between the two layers of tape. Sew along the edge of the tape to secure it, making sure you are sewing through both layers of tape and net. Pin if helpful.
29. Sew a second line of stitching a few mm inside the first line of stitching.
30. Repeat on the other side with the 200mm length of tape.
31. Cut 850mm of the 2mm cord and thread through the large channel you have sewn in Steps 27-28.
32. Cut 350mm of the 2mm cord and thread through the small channel you have sewn in Step 30.
33. Now we are going to sew one side of the net together, starting with the side with the small opening that you created in Step 30. Align the sides of the net, ensuring it is the right side out. Sew down the length of the net, just a few mm in from the outside edge. To provide a bit more robustness at the opening I start by sewing a small bar tack at edge of the herringbone tape channel, and then continue down the length of the net. You will need to adjust the stitch tension when sewing through the layers of tape.
34. Moving to the bottom of the net, orientate the net so that the inside is facing up, sew a rolled hem of about 20mm along the entire bottom edge of the net.
35. Now it's time to sew the other side of the net closed. Repeat step 33 now on the other side but making sure you stop prior to the cord opening for the bottom channel that you have sewn in Step 34.
36. Cut 3m of shock cord, lightly melt the ends, and thread through the bottom channel sewn in Step 34. Secure both ends of the shock cord with a cord lock.
37. Cut 450mm of 2mm shock cord and attach to the top ridgeline O-ring via larks head knot, and thread the other end through the Linelok3. Tie a small overhand knot in the end to prevent it slipping through the Lineloc3.
38. Repeat Step 37 at the other end.
39. Trim cords as needed.
40. Step back and admire your work.
Edited: 6/6/15 to add detail.