'Make Your Own Adventure' blog
We have already had our EOFY sale but now we are having our additional: I Really Don't Want To Count All This Stock Sale.
The sale is on a selection of our stocked items, not those we make. Sale will run until midnight Wednesday 28th June.
You can check out the sale items here: https://www.tiergear.com.au/11/products/clearancesale
The ultralight titanium tent pegs made in the USA by Dutchware Gear are arguably the best titanium hook pegs out there, well no arguing from us we think they are the best on the market. We also just so happen to consistently offer them at a price that seems to be better than any other similar style pegs in Australia. So you pay less and get better quality - it's a no brainer really.
We are the sole distributor of these in Australia.
The UL pegs weigh 6.25grams whilst the Burly pegs weigh 11grams each.
DIY quilt This post offers a simple method of calculating and stuffing down into your DIY quilt.
*40mm or 50mm x 400mm length of PVC pipe.
*A piece of dowel of similar to push out the down into the quilt
*Set of scales
Step 1: Once you have sewn in your baffles of your quilt your first step will be to calculate the volume of each baffle. This is a simple equation - length x width x baffle height (in inches). For example 52inches x 5inches x 2.5inches = 650cubic inches (Volume of the baffle).
Step 2: To work out how much down you will need to fill your baffle adequately we again use a simple equation. Volume of baffle divided by fill power of the down gives you the oz required. For example 650cubic inches/800 fill power = 0.8125oz.
Step 3: To convert oz into grams we multiply by 28.4. For example 0.8125 x 28.4 = 23.075grams.
Step 4: Standard practice is to add some overstuff to help minimise prevent down migration and loss of loft over time with use. 30% is a common overstuff. So for example 23.075 x 130% = 29.997grams.
Step 5: Lower the PVC pipe into the bag of down and using your hand stuff the down into the PVC pipe and weigh on the scales until you have the amount required. Remember to zero the weight of the pipe on the scales first so that you are just weighing the down.
Step 3: Gently insert the PVC pipe, with down in it, into the baffle and using the dowel push all the down out into the baffle. Secure the end of the baffle opening with a peg or similar to prevent down from escaping.
Step 4: Repeat for all of your baffles.
Step 5: Sew up the baffles and finish off your quilt.
Slings are one of the more popular hammock suspension options. They are
made from Dyneema rope, which is spliced by us to produce a suspension
that is adjustable in length, compact in size and light weight.
Best of all we sell them for around $7 cheaper per pair than one of the bigger Australian retail camping stores, and that is with their sale. Now that is a big saving, perhaps they should be buying them from us?
Hanging a camping hammock seems like a simple enough operation, and it is but there is a few things you need to be aware of to ensure you do it safely and with ultimate comfort in mind. (This list will be added to over time so if you have anything that you want answered just let us know).
Vital Equipment Details:
1. Tree straps - these are used to protect the trees that you will be hanging from. They can be used in conjunction with suspension systems like whoopie slings or as part of a continuous webbing solution. The features you need from these straps are:
a. Width of at least 25mm.2. Whoopie slings - these are probably the most common suspension option for the serious hammock camper, who wants to save weight and reduce pack size whilst retaining strength. The features you require from the whoopies are:
b. Be made from a low stretch material like polyester. Nylon will stretch especially when wet.
c. Be rated sufficiently. You want a breaking strain of at least 600kg, depending on your weight.
d. Ensure the loops are sewn sufficiently using quality thread and in a manner that does not reduce the breaking strain of the webbing too much.
a. Made from a high quality UHMWPE fibre rope, with Dyneema being the most popular choice.
b. A bead placed on the adjustable loop can help prevent accidental pulling through of the loop (it has happened to a number of people and can be very frustrating).
c. You want a length usually of around 1.8m. Any longer than that can be just a waste.
d. Ensure the splicing is of good quality - the most common method is to use a locked brummel at the fixed loop end but they can also be stitched.
5. Tie outs - some hammocks come with tie outs to help spread out the hammock fabric and keep the net from your face, though they are not essential to hang comfortably. Find what works for you. Personally I often don't use them.
6. Insulation - at temperatures below 20? Celsius most people will require some form of insulation to remain warm. In a hammock the most essential insulation will be underneath you - this can be in the from of an insulated pad or a hammock under quilt. For on top you can obviously use a blanket, sleeping bag or top quilt.
7. Tarps - if you wish to have protection from the wind and rain then a tarp is essential. The tarp should be at least 50cm longer than the hammock ridgeline to offer enough protection at either end of your hammock.
How to hang your hammock - some tips
1. Select solid anchor points that are around 4metres apart. Avoid dead trees or trees with large branches overhead.
2. Always use tree straps to protect the tree from damage, and depending on how far apart the trees are you should hang them around 1.8m high, with the hammock at about seat height. It is often preferable for the foot end to be hung slightly higher than the head end.
3. Your suspension should have close to a 30 degree angle from the hammock to the anchor point. This ensures the force on the suspension and anchor points is kept relatively low whilst achieving a comfortable sag in your hammock.
4. A structural ridgeline on your hammock can be a good indicator of whether you have setup your hammock suspension at the right angle. The ridgeline should be loose when initially setup without anyone in the hammock, and then it tightens up when you get in the hammock. The ridgeline should not be excessively taut once you are in the hammock, you should still be able to bend it slightly.
5. When laying in the hammock you want to lay on the diagonal to achieve a comfortable flatish lay. The angle you lay on is an individual thing so find what is most comfortable for you. Find what works, move up and down the hammock, change you angle, change your leg position etc.
6. There are many variables with hanging a hammock so the most important thing is just find what works for your specific hammock. Once you find that sweet spot there is nothing better than camping in a hammock.
7. Finally always inspect your hammock and suspension components for damage prior to heading out on a hang. Like anything your hammock will suffer from wear and tear with use, especially if you have chosen lighter components.
Simon and Sarah
Offer is valid until March 13, 2017.
As part of our ongoing process to ensure we remain viable as an Australian manufacturing business we will be reviewing the pricing for all the gear we make starting with our range of camping hammocks.
We kicked off our range of Goshawk hammocks at what I considered a pretty good price a couple of years ago, and I priced it to be competitive with similar offerings in the USA, despite our costs being greater. With our current exchange rate it is now considerably cheaper than any other cottage made camping hammock from the USA, and I would say, of course, that is comparable, if not better, in build quality, durability and comfort to any camping hammock on the market. Can it be improved? Sure it can and we are always looking to make minor adjustments to all the gear we make, whether it be how we make it or the materials we use.
So the purpose of this post is to give you a heads up that the price on our Goshawk Hammocks will be going up in the near future, so if you have been considering grabbing a Goshawk now may be the time.
A photo of the inside of one of our top quilt baffles just after the initial down was added.
Lawson cord reflective guyline
Our shipment from Lawsons Outdoor Equipment in the USA is expected to arrive Tuesday. This will include more Reflective Glowire, which is possibly the best tent/tarp guyline available in my opinion, and is why we continue to stock it and not any of the other reflective cord brands that you see in the bigger chain stores.
In the same shipment will also be some new type of cord, and more of the popular Bar Tensioners.
We are the sole retailer for Lawsons products in Australia. We work hard to establish and maintain solid relationships with specialised small manufacturers like Lawson, which allows us to make these great products more easily available to the local outdoor community.